Category: Central Provinces

Ontario and Quebec

Day 41: Bear! (Terrace Bay – White Lake Provincial Park)

June 19, 2014

Cycling out of Terrace Bay after a hearty breakfast a mother bear and two cubs meandered across the highway about 600 meters ahead of us. By the time we crossed the spot, they were well into the bush. The waitress just a few minutes earlier talked with one of the locals about the bear in her driveway but such stories are fairly common. A couple of days previous another waitress pointed to the plastic covering the screen door and explained a bear had tried to get in. With all the warnings and stories, I hadn’t seen a single bear, at least of the four-legged variety. It was a little thrilling to finally spot one at a safe distance. A couple of hours later I happened upon another bear! Close to lunch, I was thinking about food and not that I only think about food close to mealtimes now. I’m about as obsessed with food as those cartoons that see an animal and only see the porkchops or what have you. So absentmindedly cycling along, I sudden notice a bear in the ditch a few meters ahead of me. Sunning itself among the grass and dandelions chewing ever so nonchalantly, it didn’t seem particular interested in me. I warned Les and as I drove around, the bear began sniffing the air trying to figure us out. Not using my bear smarts, I stopped to take a picture. My bear spray is beside my camera so I was now also a little better prepared to defend myself. Thankfully the bear wasn’t interested in being disturbed but when I thought I heard a rustling in the woods, I very quickly got out of there. Another cyclists we have been playing leapfrog the last few days with told us that he came across a mother and three cubs walking along the railtrack earlier in the day. I guess today was finally the day of bears. I’m fine with not encountering anymore. Just before getting to the campground today I managed to snap a picture of two moose beside the highway but only at a distance. They quickly scampered into the forest.

Bear in the ditch

Read more

Day 40: Tango with Superior (Nipigon – Terrace Bay)

June 18, 2014

I had my misgivings about cycling through nothern Ontario as you may recall from a previous post. With the towns so far apart and generally small at that, it all seemed a little more rugged than I was prepared for. People I met along the way kept gushing about the beauty, especially around Lake Superior suggesting it may well rival the views in BC. So far the route is every bit as rugged as expected. Today we couldn’t find a campground so Les and I headed down to the beach in Terrace Bay, made our supper, and set up our tents behinds some trees and bushes. We’re ‘stealth camping’ as the lingo goes so hopefully we won’t be asked to leave once it gets dark. Anyway, today I finally got to view the majestic views of Lake Superior. I have some recollections of great scenery as the bus wound around the lake from years past but it’s a completely different experience on the bike. Because of the bluffs all along the lake, the road tends to snake around and over seeking the most level way. There are still significant hills to climb. While I wouldn’t want to give anyone the impression that climbing hills is a joy, it is quite stunning to come over and around a cliff to see the highway drop down into the magnificent blueness of Superior and then curve away just at the last minute. The traffic was relatively light so I had a few thrilling races towards the lake. I stopped to splash my face in the lake as it’s so clear but it is oh so cold. Which is all to say that northern Ontario is turning out better than I expected. I’m almost feeling kindly towards it but I’ll reserve my final judgement as I do still have over a week of cycling left before I finish with this region.

Into the blue of Lake Superior
Into the blue of Lake Superior

Read more

Day 39: Heroes (Thunder Bay – Nipigon)

June 17, 2014

Most people are fairly impressed when I tell them that I’m cycling across the country. It requires some perseverence and commitment but it pales in comparison to Terry Fox’s Marathon of Hope in the early 80s. For my nonCanadian readers, he was a young Canadian who lost his leg to cancer and then stated to run across the country, a marathon per day, to raise awareness and money for cancer research. He ran 143 days and 5373km (3339mi) before the spread of cancer forced him to quit in Thunder Bay and ultimately losing his life to it. There is a wonderful memorial just outside the city on the bluffs overlooking Lake Superior that I visited today. His legacy is truly inspiring. I would think the majority of cyclists stop to pay tribute; I’ve certainly seen many photos taken at that spot during my research for the trip. Ironically, in the never ending wisdom of roadway engineers, there is no way to get to the memorial but by car. Only the TransCanada passes by and it contains signs clearly prohibiting walking, cycling, and snowmobiling on the highway. To add to the irony, this portion of the highway is called the Terry Fox Courage Highway; the signs have images of Fox running! I think they should hold guerrilla marathons on the highway ending at the monument. Obviously, we touring cyclists all choose to ignore those signs.

I'm very glad to have made it to the Terry Fox Memorial
I’m very glad to have made it to the Terry Fox Memorial

Read more

Day 38: Generosity of Strangers (Upsula – Thunder Bay)

June 16, 2014

As isolating as bicycle touring can be out in the road alone, the interactions with random strangers impact your day more than they probably ever realize. The short “Where are you coming from? Where are you going? You’re so crazy” conversation when people see you with the loaded bike or people honking because they’re annoyed you’re on the road wash over pretty quickly. Getting supportive honking and waving lasts a little longer. However, occasionally you encounter a stranger who goes out of their way to be helpful. Maybe it’s not a lot of effort on their part but after a day on the road, it feels like the gifts of an angel. The first encounter today was a Petrie’s bicycle shop in Thunder Bay. Racing to get to a shop, Les and I made it 30 minutes before closing. Even though it was end of the day and they were short staffed, they looked after our bikes and gave them a little check up. Along with excellent conversation and information about the area, it took us well past closing time.

Kakabeka Falls outside Thunder Bay.
Kakabeka Falls outside Thunder Bay.

Read more

Day 37: For Riding Companions (Ignace – Upsala)

June 15, 2014

People on long distance tours tend to be a fairly independent bunch and for good reason. Getting anywhere takes time so even small difference in route plans have a big impact as do cycling pace and schedule. But on a day like today, knowing someone else is suffering through the same conditions renders the unbearable just bearable. Mother Nature stepped up her game today and added gusts to the headwinds and for good measure driving rain. It became so ridiculous at times there was nothing to do but laugh and then continue pedaling.

Read more

Day 36: A Day in the Life…(Dryden – Ignace)

June 14, 2014

Trees do not guarantee shelter from the wind but seem in fact to creat perfect little wind tunnels. Count me surprised that the trees I so longed for in the prairies can be utterly useless. With a southeastern wind, overcast skies, and endless rocks and trees, today is a perfect day to write about one of the topics I’ve tucked away for a northern Ontario day such as this one. In my posts I’ve covered relatively little about the details of each day such as when I woke, where I ate, and so on. Whether I succeed or fail, I am trying not to bore you dear reader. But having biked for over a month now, I can probably give a good account of a typical day.

Rivers of Guinness?
Rivers of Guinness?

Read more

Day 35: Infestation Friday (Kenora – Dryden

June 13, 2014

I encountered three cyclists from Germany and Switzerland yesterday and they warned me about the caterpillars to come. I noticed some on the highway but assumed being foreign, these cyclists just found our bugs strange so nothing to worry. Oh no they were right. Northern Ontario is experiencing an outbreak of Forest Tent Caterpillars and because they appear only periodically, I heard both every 7 years and 10, they have few predators to curb them. The little beasts are everywhere! Only with utmost diligence can you eat dinner without adding a few to the mix. While they move slowly, they get everywhere quickly. At least they don’t bite like the infernal mosquitoes but packing up in the morning should be interesting.

They are lovely when your not trying to flick them away.
They are lovely when you’re not trying to flick them away.

Read more

Day 34: Into the Wild (Prawda – Kenora, ON)

June 11, 2014

I completed another province and entered the behemoth that is norther Ontario. It could easily swallow a couple of other provinces, especially those in the maritimes, and still have room for dessert…maybe making eyes at a few New England states. I’ve mentally begun breaking up the next few weeks into more manageable destinations I want to reach. The next node is Thunder Bay. Getting to Kenora was my motivation for today as I recalled it being a lovely vacation town nestled among the lakes. Little things keep you going. On the way I most certainly entered the Canadian Shield as the hills and lakes now come thick and fierce. As for the inukshuks, no photo worthy ones yet but I promise some in the near future.

Starting to levitate at the excitement of making it to Ontario. Notice my marking at the bottom of the post :)
Starting to levitate at the excitement of making it to Ontario. Notice my marking at the bottom of the post 🙂

Read more